I have resolved to make some decisions and not second-guess them in an attempt to enjoy the little bit of Crete I have time for. After much reading and discussing and advice-seeking, I have decided to get a bus to Matala. The lady at the front desk made a face when I asked her opinion of the place, but it’s time to stop analyzing and just go.

So I go. And boy am I off the tourist track now! I take a bus across the interior of the island, through countless villages and towns, picking up and dropping off passengers all along the road at the most unlikely places, where there appears to be nothing but road. I begin to have my doubts, but then we finally arrive and it’s beautiful - a laid-back beach town.

There is a crystal clear, turquoise beach with a few cafes and restaurants scattered around the edge. To the right, a huge rock formation juts into the sea; there are caves carved in it that were first used by Romans as a burial grounds, and later used by hippies (Joni Mitchell, Bob Dylan) who lived there and partied on the beach. One of the cooks at a local restaurant had been living in Matala back in the day, and had met Dire Straits and Cat Stevens in the caves. He said it was a crazy, but good time.

After a lazy breakfast, I go exploring and follow signs to the red beach - scrambling over huge rocks, I finally popped out on the other side to a secluded beach even more beautiful than the first, complete with a tiny coffee and beer shop and some nudists. Swimming in the water looking back at the shore, I notice many small rocks are carved into shapes - a mermaid, a horse, an octopus. I loved it. I laid in the sun and then had a beer with a new friend from Poland (who was very, very sweet and complimented me on my perfect English - let’s hope I speak perfect English, because it’s my only language!) before catching the last bus back to town. Tomorrow, I head west along the coast as I move toward Chania, where I will catch an overnight ferry back to Athens.